Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

璀璨的夜景是大都會的一大表徵,只有擁有不夜天的繁華城巿,才能在夜裡讓本該黑漆漆的土地呈現出令人目眩的五光十色。當你在高處俯瞰,將會被這「不自然」的夜景所迷惑。今年年初, Vacheron Constantin (江詩丹頓) 發佈了 Métiers d’Art 的新作    Villes Lumières,把大都巿的夜景在表盤上定格。其時推出了紐約、日內瓦及巴黎三款,來到 6 月,目光由歐洲轉到亞洲,北京版面世了。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières,左起:巴黎版、紐約版及日內瓦版

Métiers d’Art 是 Vacheron Constantin 的工藝腕表系列,利用各種精巧的工藝,使旗下腕表的表盤如畫布般呈現出不同的主題,如去年的 Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale 便以雕刻及琺瑯演繹出西裝布料的紋理。今年新作 Villes Lumières 則以傳統的大明火內填琺瑯結合手工點綴珍貴粉末工藝創作出「光之城」,這兩種工藝之中,前者在品牌作品中已十分常見,由品牌的工藝師負責,後者則是首次出現於表盤製作之中,由日本客座藝術家今井陽子操刀。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

一如年初發佈的三款 Villes Lumières 作品,Vacheron Constantin 首先選取了該地最具代表性的地標為主角,再描繪出其鳥瞰畫面。若論最能代表北京的地方,故宮是必然是首選,故 Villes Lumières 北京版把故宮設置於表盤正中央,「地圖」覆蓋範圍經仔細考量,東至王府井大街、西至中南海,南至毛主席紀念堂,北至景山公園,該區最重要的地段都能在盤上看到。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

Villes Lumières 的表盤製作涉及了兩項工藝,先由 Vacheron Constantin 的琺瑯師製作「表盤地圖」,以凸起的金質脊線勾勒出湖、河、公園及花園等特別地段,並填入相應的藍色及綠色半透明琺瑯。我曾將之將 Google 地圖作比對,輕易就能找出各地標的位置。另外,技師又以手工在盤上雕出街道及故宮內的間隔,然後填入多層深色的半透明琺瑯,每上一層琺瑯釉,表盤便需要經過一次高達 850°C 的高溫烘焙,故每一塊表盤都是琺瑯師的心血結晶。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

地圖完成後,就由藝術家今井陽子為表盤「點睛」。手工點綴珍貴粉末工藝就是以一根細針把珍貴寶石粉和貴金屬粉末妝點到物品之上,使之能在光線下反射出獨特的光芒。而用於 Villes Lumières 腕表上的每種粉末的尺寸和光澤均經過精挑細選,以確保能提升表盤亮度的同時,又不會影響作品的真實性,並特別以深邃的琺瑯背景以突顯珍貴粉末的反光效果。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

今井首先以細小的金粉做背景裝飾,然後加入鑽石和鉑金粉末,最後以珍珠亮片做點綴,由於四種粉末的反光程度不同,只要再調整其方向和尺寸,便能營造出一個「燈火通明的城巿夜景」,而它更特別強調了表盤中央的光澤度,再向表盤外圈逐漸柔化,就更符合城內熱門地段與旁緣地帶的反差。整個腕表的製作時間更超過三個月。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 北京版腕表 腕表發佈

Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 腕表採用 18K 白金表殼,直徑 40 毫米,厚 8.9 毫米,配雙層大方格紋黑色鱷魚皮表帶。腕表已取得日內瓦印記,內置江詩丹頓 2460 SC 自動上條機芯,零件採用了高級製表工藝修飾,包括倒角打磨、魚鱗紋和拋光打磨修飾等。擺頻為 4Hz,動力儲存約 40 小時,只要翻轉腕表,透過透明表底蓋更可以欣賞到飾有刻紋裝飾的 22K 金上條陀。購買此腕表會配有一枚放大鏡,讓你更仔細地欣賞其內內外外的細節。

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières 腕表定價約 HK$ 833,000。品牌表示隨後會陸續推出其他城市版本,希望有機會看到香港版,始終香港的夜景可是數一數的美呢。vacheron-constantin.com

  • WINKS

    Huh?

  • IanE

    Dire! MB&F seem to be out of ideas.

  • Bill W

    Hey Ariel,

    I just wanted to tell you that I thought your ninth paragraph (explaining the French saying) was very beautifully written and a little bit moving. Good job man.

    • Ariel Adams

      Thank you for saying that, I appreciate it.

  • Shirley Furby

    Absolutely fascinating. Purity and humerous pleasure, what more could you ask for, except a price I could afford.

  • iamcalledryan

    Love it. MB&F are always careful not to be too serious about their seriously impressive watches. Love the crystal bridge. There is a niche of very enthusiastic Silberstein collectors, and I am sure they will go gaga about this.

  • frauss

    Forgive me but that power reserve winkie stands up when there is power and goes down when it runs out? Mimics nature pretty good.

  • GhostlyProduct

    Please consult a doctor if your MB&F has a power reserve indicator lasting more than 45 hours.

  • DanW94

    Love the Legacy Machine line but I’m not feeling this “primary colors” edition.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Looking at true happiness is a joy. His sparse use of primary colours are used just where they are needed. His power reserve is quite unique. The crystal bridge keeps the face open and bright. Back and front , this is one gorgeous time piece. How much does a kidney go for these days ?.

  • BrJean

    The contrast between the dial and caseback (especially on black version) is too striking. Not my favorite edition of LM.

  • SuperStrapper

    Cool, and especially with the black variant undeniably Silberstein. Once upon a time I had a Silberstein chronograph with some cool case work, but it didnt wear nicely and with all those primary colours it never really ‘fit in’. On some stroke of great coincidence I was actually wearing it and it was recognised and someone made what I thought was a very aggressive offer to buy it and I let it go. I assumed that I would never see anything Silberstein again.

  • Hey, primary colors, the 80s called, they want you back.

  • Sevenmack

    The black PVD titanium version is gorgeous. Love the playful colors, which add joviality to the austere and nicely finished black dial and case. The classic finishing of the movement in back offers a harsh-yet-appealing contrast to the modernist dial. Save for the price, this watch is lovely.

  • Love the watch from the back. But that’s it. I much prefer the normal LM-1 (which I really dig).

  • JimBob

    So funky. A bit pricey for something likely to be taken for a Swatch. The gold should help.

  • JoJo

    I’m glad to see MB&F and A.S. doing what they love. I’ve always liked A.S. Designs, even if they are a little dated.

    I think the author mixed up convex and concave. If the dials “are like small bowls” they would be concave.

  • Chaz

    Super cool. Wish I had the scratch and connections for one of these.

  • Martin Cerny

    well done.. love it..!

  • Marius

    WOW! This is one of the ugliest watches I have ever seen. It occupies a solid #3 spot, right after Romaine Jerome and Nubeo. In fact, I`m willing to bet my Patek 3940 that MB&F won`t sell more than one unit of this watch. What`s more, I`m also willing to bet my Ducati S4RS that even the seal from the circus could have designed a better-looking watch.

    Of course, if you really like like this watch go ahead and buy it. However, don`t expect me to invite you on my yacht “Tempus Fugit” in Monte-Carlo.

  • Ulysses31

    It’s kinda fun but the clownish dial-side would get old real fast. Nothing says you have money like paying top-dollar for something as ridiculous-looking as this. That must be what fuels the market for vulgarity in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The power-reserve indicator might as well be sculpted to look like a middle-finger, or perhaps a tiny penis for the Trump special-edition.

  • Beefalope

    Well, I guess a screw-up by the otherwise irreproachable MB&F was bound to happen at some point.

    Partnering up with the most talentless, overrated designer this side of Gerald Genta is bound to produce vomit-inducing results like this.

  • thankfully only 36 people will see their money thrown away …. but like Always it’s hard to discuss taste and colors 🙂

  • Timestandsstill

    I always thought Silberstein watches were fun and original, although often not that wearable due to thickness. I think this is a very cool collaboration myself and not too incongruous. If it came to it I would probably go with the original LM1 though. I don’t think they will have any trouble selling these all.