高端腕表選購要點第三章:高端奢華腕表

高端腕表選購要點第三章:高端奢華腕表

高端腕表選購要點第三章:高端奢華腕表 ABTW編輯之選

20,000美元及以上的腕表:

大部分高端奢華腕表買家在購入新品,都很清楚自己在購買什麼。這些資深表迷們不僅知道哪些新品值得購買,也同樣懂得欣賞傳統精品。一個人得經過多年的研究和學習,才能理解高端奢華腕表(從20,000美元起,上不封頂)的價值所在。只有這樣才能真正獲得鑑別腕表價值的能力,而不是落入衝動消費的陷阱。人人都嚮往奢侈品中最頂級的腕表,因為它們身上有太多令人嚮往的高端特性。總而言之,在購買一枚高端奢華腕表的決策過程中,你應當將一些要點牢記於心。以下是「奢華腕表選購要點」的最後一章,在斥巨資購表之前,你最好將這三章列出的要點都納入考慮:

1.貴金屬構造

高端奢華腕表理應採用品質上乘的高級材料,而其中最理想的莫過於本身就價值不菲的貴金屬。如果將兩枚分別用18K金和鈦金屬打造的高端腕表放在一起比較的話,誰更高檔是顯而易見的。不僅如此,貴金屬所佔的比例也很重要。整個表殼都為黃金?還是只有部分採用?時、分針也都是金質的嗎?當你預算在20,000美元及以上的時候,腕表上的貴金屬部件自然是越多越好。最常見的貴金屬物料包括各種顔色的黃金(黃色、玫瑰色、粉色、紅色、白色等)以及鉑金。白銀很少被用來製造表殼,其常常只出現在傳統風格的表盤上。對於一些特定款式而言,如果有寶石裝飾的話則更爲理想。

2.高品質天然寶石

像我之前提到的那樣,如果你選擇的是一枚帶有寶石裝飾的腕表,那麼你就一定要特別留心。首先你得查證寶石的來源,其一般分為天然寶石與合成寶石兩種。天然寶石的獲取方式比較傳統,而其開採過程也往往受到爭議。天然寶石擁有與生俱來的浪漫意味:一顆寶石在地殼中慢慢生成,因機緣巧合被人們所發現,經過精心切磨後,最終才出現在你的腕表上。除了「拆石」(從其他未售出的存貨上拆下的寶石)之外,合成寶石也可以作爲天然寶石的替代品。這類寶石並非完全由人工製造,它們只是在實驗室中生長而來。所以仍然是真正的寶石,只不過不是在自然環境中形成罷了。製表界中最流行的合成寶石要數藍寶石水晶(有多種顔色,當然也能用作表鏡)、一定等級的鑽石以及其他類型的寶石(比如有機材質,像貝母這種已經基本全靠人工養殖了)。當然在所有寶石中,價值最高的還是天然寶石。

你需要對寶石的數量和品質多加注意,因爲寥寥幾顆高等級寶石的價值遠遠勝過一排廉價寶石。你得仔細觀察每顆寶石的顔色和大小,並查詢寶石總重及其來源。總的來說,以珠寶腕表聞名的品牌通常都會爲其高端腕表配上最好的寶石。雖然一枚高端腕表的價值並不取決於寶石,但是如果你偏愛寶石裝飾的話,那還是得好好做做功課。

3.表廠自製機芯

大多數腕表品牌自身並不生産機芯,它們主要從供應商處採購機芯。最著名的歐洲機芯製造商便是斯沃琪集團(Swatch Group)旗下的ETA。一些公司會將採購來的機芯直接用在腕表上,但有時也會對其稍作改動或是加入功能模組,令其變成更為複雜的獨家款式。在這一過程中,製表工匠也會對機芯進行打磨潤飾,以實現更精緻的視覺效果。而有研發能力的製表商即使無法製造腕表所需的全部部件,也至少會自行設計和生産機芯。你會發現像百達翡麗、愛彼、積家、朗格等頂級表廠都會提供自製機芯。

幾乎所有的自製機芯都同時具備高水準的潤飾效果,有的還會是大複雜功能款式。擁有自製機芯即意味著與衆不同,而你也將成爲「表廠自製機芯」俱樂部的一員(足以好好向別人吹噓一番)。

高端腕表選購要點第三章:高端奢華腕表 ABTW編輯之選

4.日內瓦印記

日內瓦印記是品質和原産地的象徵,如果其被鐫刻在一枚腕表的機芯上,則表明該時計完全符合瑞士法律規定的嚴苛條款。日內瓦印記只會頒發給在瑞士日內瓦州完成大部分生産和組裝流程的腕表機芯。此外,其還必須在技術和潤飾方面達到超高標準。因爲日內瓦印記要求極高,所以只有少數製表商可以獲得認證。雖然日內瓦印記並非是腕表品質的最高標準,但那些獲得認證的腕表卻一定是奢華時計中的佼佼者。

5.特殊材質

你是否已經厭倦了主流的金屬腕表?顯然有些製表商也和你一樣。在過去幾年裡,我們看到大量奢華腕表在表殼和機芯物料上大做文章,因此也催生出一些專用新型合金、前所未有的特殊複合物以及創新的材料運用方式。在實現差異化的道路上,製表商們不顧一切地探索特殊物料的應用方式,有時更直接促進了腕表本身的品質提升。

舉例而言,百達翡麗和雅典這樣的品牌會在一些機芯上採用矽質部件。這一特別物料不僅無需潤滑劑輔助,更能提升機芯的壽命與精準度。而用在表殼上的陶瓷則比金屬更加堅硬,並能提供更好的防刮特性。高端奢華腕表會大膽採用各式各樣的特殊物料。過去我們常見的物料包括精鋼、黃金、鈦金屬以及各種皮料,而近年來如橡膠、鍛造碳、碳纖維、複合樹脂(本質上也是一種塑膠)、天然石材、形狀複雜的藍寶石水晶以及陶瓷複合物等新型物料也是層出不窮。最重要是,在這個充斥著新奇物料的世界裡,你可以在高端時計上盡情欣賞極富創意的物料應用方式。

高端腕表選購要點第三章:高端奢華腕表 ABTW編輯之選

6.極爲耗時的手工製造和組裝

你應當時常考考腕表零售商:「製作這枚腕表花費了多少時間?」他們理應對答如流,並爲之感到自豪。高端腕表是由大師級工匠手工製造和組裝而成的。有時是一組人參與製作,而有時則可能只有一名製表工匠,所以僅僅一枚時計就需花費一年多的時間。每一細小的部件都需經過生産、打磨、組裝和測試環節,你就可以想像整個製表過程會有多漫長。而一枚腕表的製作時間越長,其調校與潤飾水準也就會越高。腕表的工時並沒有特定標準,其取決於製表商的做事風格。勞力士擁有複雜的機械輔助,最快只需幾天就可以完成一枚腕表,而工業化程度較低的品牌則往往要花費數月之久。

7.複雜功能

高端腕表不止有漂亮的機械機芯,更會常常搭載複雜功能。20,000美元以上的腕表要麼具備多種功能,要麽會以特別的方式進行計時。一些複雜功能是專門負責提升腕表的精度,並展現有趣的運作方式(比如各式陀飛輪擒縱機構)。而另一些如萬年曆、飛返計時、自鳴報時、芝麻鏈、月相以及能夠顯示多個時區的世界時功能也常被高端腕表所採用。你需要具備對各式腕表功能的辨別能力。當你在選購高端腕表時,千萬不要考慮隨處可見的低端功能,以確保這枚腕表物有所值。

高端腕表選購要點第三章:高端奢華腕表 ABTW編輯之選

8.出衆的設計風格

一枚高端腕表的外觀也理應出衆,所以工匠們必然要耗費大量時間與精力才能令腕表設計不會像新潮數碼産品一樣快速過時。頂尖的製表工匠不僅擅長打造獨家設計,也同樣善於製造「一炮而紅的經典之作」。雖然要發現真正的好設計還需要有獨到的眼光,但除了搜尋著名的設計師之外,你還可以採取一些竅門來評定腕表的設計水準:首先,如果你對某款腕表一見鍾情,那麼你就得在審視它的過程中反復問自己「它看起來是否還跟第一眼的感覺一樣?如果將其與同等優秀的表款進行比較,它是否依然出眾?相信我,如果你有機會試戴的話請一定要戴上手試試,同時也要讓別人戴上給你看看,因為在自己與別人手腕上的佩戴效果各具參考價值,而優秀的設計一定適合每一個人。另外,一枚設計出眾的腕表在其他方面的特性也需足夠出色才能符合其尊貴的定位。

9.限量生産

頂級奢華之物往往數量極少,並且在生産上也實行限量政策。而物以罕爲貴,如果數量太多的話,其投資價值以及人們對它的興趣也會下降。所以請多了解限量版或限量生産的腕表,並向賣家咨詢該型號的産量,看看市面上究竟是有1,000枚還是100,000枚。腕表産量越少就會越獨特,而這也是奢侈品的一大主要特徵。

10.投資級腕表

高端奢華腕表的買家是幸運的,他們購買的都是極具升值潛力的精品。一方面,一些品牌的王牌産品總在不斷升值(比如百達翡麗和勞力士);另一方面,其他表款或品牌也可能具備同樣的品質。要斷定一枚腕表的升值潛力非常困難(除非是一枚罕有的百達翡麗腕表,其本身就難得一見),但你只要儘量按照上述的指南進行篩選,你就一定能夠找到一枚達到投資級別的時計。雖然你並非全爲投資而買表(也可能是因爲流行或功能因素),但如果這枚時計能夠長期保值,自然會是錦上添花的事情。

高端腕表選購要點第一章:入門級高端腕表

高端腕表選購要點第二章:中階高端腕表

  • Display sure looks limited. But it would be fun to test drive one on my ABTW INOX watch.

    • iamcalledryan

      I love my ABTW INOX watch!

      But I prefer it naked (the watch…). I haven’t even used the guard that it came with and find this thing to be unwieldy and just as useless as other “smart” offerings. I can live without chrono and world time, not least because there are watches out there that do it. As for activity tracking and “who is calling me?” notifications – huge yawn….!

      • have you seen the burgundy red guard? It is actually really nice and hugs the whole case

        • iamcalledryan

          Yes, unfortunately I got black…

      • Notice I said, I’d be willing try it out (not buy it, ha ha). I too don’t use the bumper on my ABTW INOX.

    • Boogur T. Wang

      Meh. Not impressed.
      I think we are seeing the “Throw everything out there and see what sticks to the wall” approach in “smart watch” technology…aka the “cooking spaghetti” marketing R/D.
      I like the INOX watch, but I do not like the rubber strap nor the “bumper” thing.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Why do you need the time twice ?

    • Adam Young

      Maybe you could set it to a different time zone? Like how in the picture it’s set to a time zone 3 minutes ahead of the watch itself… wait what?! How did someone not pick up on that?

      • Raymond Wilkie

        oh yeah, so it is.

  • SuperStrapper

    I’m a fan of my aBtW INOX watch, but it is big and top heavy all on its own. 53mm tall is downright comical: this accoutrement is not designed for durability, so how can it be practical in any way? You’d be knocking over old ladies and tearing car doors off everywhere you went, all in the name of knowing that the phone in your pocket has a text message for you from the wife. Get eggs on the way home.

  • ” It is probably going to be a bit confusing to some customers because of
    the repeated use of the Cybertool name, and that hopefully isn’t too
    big of a deal for Victorinox Swiss Army.”

    Probably not, seeing how no one is going to buy this. The INOX is a hell of a tool watch, and it’s hard not to love (especially at the gray market or pre-owned price points) but this just seems silly. People who use paracord to strap on indestructible watches probably aren’t looking forward to tracking their calorie count with a ginormous plastic, snap-on hockey puck.

  • Ulysses31

    It looks like it wants to be a dive computer of some sort, but without all that functionality. Although the case design allows for it, I never really saw the INOX watch as merely a chassis for extras to clip on to. It looks odd and bulky. Can’t fault them for trying something new though.

    • Raymond Wilkie

      I can

  • CortexUK

    I like Victorinox. Have five of their watches (though little has tempted me recently). But this….

  • spiceballs

    Take it off – put it down – lose it – – – at least I would, more than likely. But then I cannot see any need for this, so no loss.

  • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

    If only the watch industry spent all the money the wasted on smart watches on actual R&D…

  • Very kewl! Now I can create the perfect accessory to match my avatar!!!!

  • hatster

    I have ‘some’ watches, then I have a Garmin for cycling and running. Conceptually, I get why you might do this as if I could slot something over my watches then I might take that as an option. But one downside is most of mine have leather straps so not ideal for a three-hour ride. Bottom line, if I have a watch on a metal bracelet and I could add something like this for exercising, I would consider it…… so have I just justified to myself the purchase of an INOX? D’OH!

  • Adam Young

    It looks really big and clunky. Though I can’t fault them too much as it HAS to be big if it’s going to go around an already large watch.
    Looks aside I like it. Simple notifications, long battery life (which doesn’t interfere with watch functions), and a reasonable price point if it’s on the lower end of that scale. I wonder if they could have done something like Montblanc do with the display on the strap so as to not make the watch bigger.

  • Mike Burdine

    I have a smart phone. I have a watch. I think I’ll keep it that way. Maybe this is the smart watch for watch guys.

  • I’m really impressed with what Victorinox is doing with the INOX, in developing a bold timepiece with the intention of creating a new flagship product and then actually giving it the backing and support it needs over a number of years to get it to that level. It’s so tiring watching the short-termist, knee-jerk reactions of many watch brands. My navy one gets a ridiculous amount of wear and now I’m pining for a paracord model too, strangely I really like this new ivory colour which I suspect is aimed at the ladies.

  • Congrats to Acer for making awesome Smart Watch at the MWC 2016 trade show. I really appreciate the features, technology and reasonable price of Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Smart Watch. Especially pedometer, Incoming calls notification, mail & message notification and Goal Setting of features. People must be Impressed with Accelerometer sensor.

    Yes, Last year Victorinox Swiss Army came out with additional versions of the INOX including a steel bracelet and Naimakka-branded parachord strap. For those who aren’t familiar with the
    Victorinox Swiss Army INOX watch collection, it is one of the brand’s more premium Swiss quartz movement-based collections made notable by the brand’s intense promises of durability and longevity. I must recommend you this watch.

  • funNactive

    Interesting idea, but a huge watch 53.1mm

  • If you really wanna wear a tank on your wrist…

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