十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

如果你有留意那些受歡迎的腕表品牌的話,你會發現他們有些系列其實已經存在了很長時間。比如勞力士就很少發佈全新款式,其一直都在致力於保持核心系列的與時俱進。像Submariner(潛航者型)和Datejust(日誌型)都是歷久彌新的長壽系列。而其他品牌也會根據現代的審美觀而對其經典款式不斷改良。為了幫助大家了解那些「活著的傳奇」,我們特別製作了這個十大最值得入手腕表排行榜。如果一個表款要成為在世傳奇,它必須擁有深厚的歷史積澱,並且至今仍保持生產。我們知道這個排行榜沒法做到面面俱到,所以請各位讀者也在留言區寫下你的最愛。

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

勞力士Submariner (潛航者型)

1954年勞力士Submariner腕表一經推出便改變了整個製表業。這一表款起初並非定位於奢侈品,其旨在成為適合所有人的專業潛水表。Submariner在很長的一段時間裡都是專業領域中的頂尖表款,直到1980年代高級腕表開始帶上了奢侈品屬性,而勞力士也逐漸成為全球最受追捧的高端時計品牌之一。 Submariner 是品牌旗下最熱門的系列,其憑藉堅韌品質、清晰設計和瀟灑格調成為一代經典。更重要的是,它幾乎適合所有的男士(以及許多女士)。無論用家的外形、穿衣風格、年齡如何,這一表款都能與之完美相襯。毫無疑問,Submariner的設計在今日依然不會過時,其最新的40毫米直徑款式提供了精鋼、雙色、18K白金或黃金等多種物料選擇。雖然平均售價達8,500美元,但它注定是永恆經典和保值佳品。rolex.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

歐米茄超霸系列 (Speedmaster)

拋開價格、名氣、歷史或技術的差別,歐米茄超霸系列可以算是運動計時腕表中的精華之作。如果你希望一枚腕表外觀獨特有型而又不至於太過炫耀,同時它還具有深厚的歷史傳承以及大量的變奏款式,那麼超霸系列就一定能滿足你。為什麼呢?因為這一表款曾經獲得NASA(美國國家航空航天局)的認可,並見證了巴茲·奧爾德林(Buzz Aldrin)1969年進行的人類首次月球行走。隨後「月球表」就成了超霸計時腕表的代名詞。這一系列旗下款式眾多,在二手市場上也存量巨大。其保值性相當不俗,並且更新速度較為緩慢。無論3570.50手動上條機芯還是最新的 9300同軸自動上條機芯都是不錯的選擇。它不僅是一枚腕表,更象徵著一段顯赫的制表歷史。其精鋼表款售價在4,500-8,700美元之間。omegawatches.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

愛彼皇家橡樹系列 (Royal Oak)

愛彼在石英危機中瀕臨破產之際,憑借皇家橡樹系列一舉扭轉頹勢,隨後才成就了今日的地位。當時,愛彼明白品牌需要徹底的革新,因此邀請了設計大師傑羅·尊達(Gérald Genta)共同創作一款可以打破市場困局的腕表。大師的作品皇家橡樹5402ST腕表在1972年正式發表,這一精鋼腕表的定價甚至比一些金表都要更高。當時的奢華腕表市場上並沒有可以作為參考的精鋼運動類產品,皇家橡樹系列可以說是愛彼孤注一擲的嘗試。在其誕生之初,人們的評價是兩極分化的。但這一表款不僅開創了一個全新的腕表類型         奢華精鋼運動腕表,更令愛彼得以煥然新生。傑羅·尊達的這一經典設計如今已成為品牌不可分割的一部分。其售價20,000美元起跳。audemarspiguet.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

積家Reverso翻轉腕表系列

1931年問世的Reverso翻轉腕表源於Jaeger LeCoultre二人的一次傳奇合作(後來才合並成為我們熟知的積家品牌)。這一表款專為在印度殖民地的英國精英階層打造,以令他們在激烈的馬球比賽中也可以使用,所以其注定是定位於高端。雖然以今天的眼光來看翻轉表殼已不算特別,但在當年這一設計是很難在工業化生產中實現的。最初長方形表殼翻轉後只是將實心金屬表背露在外面以保護腕表,其棱角分明的瀟灑氣質和Art Deco裝飾藝術風格很快就受到了歐洲上流社會的追捧。20世紀中期,Reverso翻轉腕表曾一度停止生產,直到1980年代才重歸人們的視野。這種情況在過去的20年中時有發生。Reverso翻轉腕表憑藉不朽風格和紳士魅力成為一大經典表款,而積家也以此為基礎推出了不同尺寸的變奏版本滿足高端顧客的多變品味。其表殼和機芯都為品牌自製,平均售價10,000美元jaeger-lecoultre.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選 勞力士Datejust (日誌型)

作為勞力士最基礎的型號,Datejust1945年誕生以來一直延續至今。當勞力士為其「官財仔(Bubbleback)腕表增加一個日期視窗之時便宣告了這一長青系列的誕生。Datejust系列代表了品牌對腕表基本要素的詮釋。勞力士作風保守,而Datejust可以說是其最實用的表款。這一腕表提供的功能剛好滿足日常所需,沒有任何冗餘。在2009年的41毫米直徑版本之前,Datejust只有包括36毫米(男士)、31毫米(中裝)和26毫米(女士)在內的小型尺寸。在悠久的時光中,這一經典型號曾經受到過許多著名人物的青睞,其中包括美國總統德懷特·艾森豪威爾(Dwight David Eisenhower)以及數不清的影視明星,就連《黑道家族》裏的Tony Soprano也是Datejust的忠實用家。這一勞力士的經典型號適用於各種場合,無論牛仔褲T恤還是西裝革履都不在話下。其價格9,000美元起跳(Datejust II),而鑲嵌鑽石的黃金版本則可能是天價。rolex.com

  十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

泰格豪雅Monaco摩納哥系列

泰格豪雅Monaco1969年問世,其是最早一批問世並且仍然在售的自動上條計時腕表之一 。品牌創始人傑克·豪雅(Jack Heuer)以著名的Monaco GP Formula One為其命名。這一系列以方形表殼和備受贊譽的Calibre 11自動上條機芯為特色,其曾隨史蒂夫‧麥昆(Steve McQueen)因一同出現在電影《Le Mans(極速狂飆)》中。作為計時腕表中的一大典範之作,Monaco摩納哥系列雖然發售幾年後便停產,但1998年時泰格豪雅便以McQueen復刻版重啟該系列。2003年,Monaco摩納哥系列正式重歸人們的視野。古董以及限量版的Monaco摩納哥系列腕表在二手市場最受追捧。無論你在熒幕上看到的是史提夫·麥昆因還是《絕命毒師》裡的Walter White,你都會感受到Monaco摩納哥系列散發的獨特氣質。其售價4,500美元tagheuer.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

格拉蘇蒂原創Senator Navigator

最受歡迎的運動腕表除了潛水腕表就要數飛行員表了,後者在市面上也有許多選擇。飛行員表自創生之初就呈現大型表殼,目前無法考證其創始人究竟是誰。現在普遍認為最早的飛行員腕表出現在1920年代的德國和瑞士。這一類型的時計有時會被稱為「B-uhr」,而許多品牌都有類似的產品線。我們也非常喜歡飛行員腕表,由於此設計的原創者並不明確,所以我們選擇了格拉蘇蒂原創的Senator Navigator作為這一傳奇類型的代表作。該品牌曾推出過不少飛行員表款,平均售價7,000美元。這些作品水準極高,但即使在品牌售點也極為少見。而其他品牌同類腕表的價格跨度很大,從幾百到幾千美元都有。glashuette-original.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

百年靈航空計時系列 (Navitimer)

1950年代初期誕生了另一款著名的飛行員表         百年靈Navitimer。其憑藉計時功能與環形飛行滑尺的巧妙結合而獲得了廣泛贊譽。儘管航空計時系列並非百年靈旗下首個搭載這些功能的表款,但其仍然很快就在軍事和專業飛行領域普及開來。這一專業計時工具不僅能精確指示時間,更能幫助飛行員在航行中快速進行必要的計算。這一切都要歸功於計時功能與飛行滑尺的高效合作。在駕駛艙全面數字化後,航空計時系列腕表的利用率也隨之降低。但現在的飛行員培訓課程依然會教傳統的模擬計算系統,以防電子設備出現故障。百年靈航空計時系列已成為嚴謹、睿智的活力男士鍾愛的高端計時工具。如今,這一系列搭載著百年靈的自製機芯,並且一直是品牌旗下的暢銷產品。其售價9,000美元breitling.com

  十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

卡地亞Santos

卡地亞Santos系列的歷史不僅相當悠久,更與人類的飛行探索息息相關。阿爾伯特・山度士-杜蒙(Alberto Santos-Dumont)在大約1906年首度駕駛固定機翼飛行器實現持續飛行。杜蒙和他的好友         法國珠寶商路易・卡地亞分享了他在飛行過程中遇到的一個困難:駕駛飛機的同時很難查閱懷表時間。卡地亞隨後便設計出可以戴在腕上的時計。如此一來,杜蒙無需將手從控制器處移開便能隨時讀取時間。卡地亞幫助杜蒙成功解決了這一問題,與此同時,品牌不僅打造出第一枚飛行員時計,更開創了男士佩戴腕表的先河。因為在那個年代,只有女士才會佩戴腕表。Santos系列如今更名為Santos 100,其以方形表殼和羅馬數字刻度為特徵,尺寸也變為更現代的51 x 41.3毫米。這一系列經久不衰,其原因在於它極富傳奇色彩的起源和極為實用的運動特質。即便經歷了百年演變,但卻依然魅力十足。其售價6,700美元起跳cartier.com

十大最值得擁有的在世傳奇 ABTW編輯之選

萬國表葡萄牙系列 (Portuguese)

萬國表葡萄牙系列的故事一如其名所示。根據萬國表的資料顯示,在1930年代有一群葡萄牙商人造訪了品牌位於瑞士的表廠。他們希望定製一款讀時清晰而又超凡精準的時計,以適應遠洋航行之需。當時的航海活動必須借助高精度的航海天文鐘才能實現,因為在遠離陸地的海上人們無法校對時間。葡萄牙商人希望用精準的腕表代替固定的大型時鐘。雖然原作的走時精度已經無法考證,但這一系列在誕生之後的確好評如潮。其設計基於專業航海儀器,直到如今也十分暢銷。葡萄牙系列擁有眾多變奏款式,但均以大型表殼為特徵,並且配有阿拉伯數字刻度與比例和諧的指針。這一系列的設計無可挑剔,不愧為一大傳奇之作。其平均售價約10,000美元IWC.com

另外還有第二梯隊的十大傳奇腕表值得推薦:寶璣Classique經典系列、柏萊士BR 01、Junghans Max Bill、百達翡麗Ref. 5270、百達翡麗Nautilus、沛納海Marina Luminor、宇舶表Big Bang、勞力士Daytona(迪通拿系列)和摩凡陀博物館盤系列(Museum Dial)。

  • Marius

    I find this to be a very thorough and informative article. Of course, myself, I only buy from the brand boutiques as I trust absolutely no one (for me, watch dealers are on the same footing as drug dealers). However, for those who appreciate buying vintage and pre-owned watches, this article provides a lot of useful information, as well as some important tips on etiquette and cultural differences. I traveled once to Tokyo, and I only wish I had read this article in 2013.

  • WolverBilly

    This stuff is always so interesting in terms of what you can find in Japan. There’s even shopping district where the best in motorcycle gear can be sampled in shop after shop. One of these days. . .

  • Benjamin Mercury Vetaas

    I’ll study in Japan for six months starting january next year. So this article is really helpful to me. I’m going to look for vintage GS with a japanese day/ date, I’m not 100% sure about which model I want yet, I guess I’ll have to go for the watch that speaks to me the instant I see it.

    I’ll make sure to walk around in Tokyo for at least two weeks before I decide to buy anything, so that I get the opportunity to check out A LOT of places before I decide what to get.

    My school is in Shibuya, so I expect there to be some good stores nearby. I’ll make sure to look for electronic and camera stores.

  • gt0279a

    Jack Road in the Nakano plaza is probably my favorite. Huge selection of vintage watches and most major brands of new as well. Bought new and vintage there and the prices are reasonable. No upcharge for credit cards either. Also, Nakano has so many shops in it dedicated to about most everything. The toy shops are amazing.

  • HectorAsuipe

    Spot on. I go to Japan once or twice a year (Osaka, Fukuoka, Tokyo, Kyoto) and can confirm Ariel’s impressions. Maybe the best approach is to find, befriend and follow a Japanese watch enthusiast to help you out a little. My wife was in Tokyo a few weeks ago and did the watch store circuit around Ginza and Shinjuku, sending me pictures of cool stuff she found.

    Yodobashi and Bic Camera stores also will have credit card discount deals (e.g. -4% if you use your Visa card), as well as the instant duty tax credit if you have your passport with you (-8%), and they will usually give you a little more than that if you buy multiple items. So I got a Seiko Cocktail Time, a Field Master, and a Junghans Max Bill for a nice rounded down package price after applying all those discounts at Yodobashi in Fukuoka. But then I hunted down the actual Azabu Tailor shop on the same trip to locate their own signature model Seiko and they looked at me like I was speaking Dutch.

    The prices are indeed fair in most venues, although they might have a more highly-valued market for some models than you would expect, so while what may be an undesireable – by Western tastes – watch will be “overpriced,” something on your list may be surprisingly well priced and in beautiful condition.

    I’ll be in Kyoto in April and hoping to find something interesting there, but it is not the strongest of the Japanese watch shopping locales.

  • otaking241

    I lived in Japan a bit over four years and can confirm that haggling is not part of the culture. I once listened in on a (Japanese) guy trying to negotiate a reasonable discount on an Omega at Yodobashi Camera. After an eternity of hemming and hawing the salesperson grudgingly offered a 1% discount. Interestingly, if you can’t get the tax-free discount at Yodobashi you may be able to get them to give you a discount in lieu of the store points (3-10% depending on the item), but YMMV depending on who you talk to.

    The best watch deals I found over there were, as Ariel mentioned, in the second-hand shops around Shinjuku station. But wherever you happen to be you should be able to find a local branch of the Daikokuya chain of stores, which tend to have some interesting finds at bargain prices. Hard Off is another one with branches nation-wide.

    In Yokohama there is a chain of stores called Rodeo Drive the resells luxury goods but has a great selection of watches. The main branch is in Motomachi. The shopping area around Yokohama station also has a number of similar stores worth checking out.

    I also second the recommendation to check out Nakano. “Nakano
    Broadway” is the name of the mall there and it’s home to dozens of tiny,
    highly-focused specialty shops, including ones selling only erasers
    shaped like action figures, Japanese movie posters, coins, stickers,
    darts etc. There are also some great antique shops where you can find
    some really unique items. I bought my dad a Seiko pocket watch previously issued to a Japan
    Rail engineer for the equivalent of about $70.

    • James

      Agree on the lack of haggling. I haven’t bought watches but I’ve bought a number of cameras in Japan over the years and instead of negotiating a discount, it’s much more common to negotiate to see if you can get something extra for your money – so you pay the price on the tag, or very close to it, but you get some packs of rechargeable batteries and an SD card, or a camera bag, or a small tripod or something similar thrown in for the same price. I bought a decent Canon EOS some years back and ended up with a Canon camera bag and a detachable flash thrown in for good measure, plus a good whack of “store points” that I later used for a discount on a lens (but, unfortunately, you usually can’t use the points on the same day – you have to come back another day to redeem the points on another purchase).

  • egznyc

    Thanks for a great article. I am very interested in going to Japan and this sounds like it’d be a lot of fun – the quest for vintage watches in a foreign land! I’ll be sure to consult it again when an actual trip materializes.

  • Adam Young

    What a great article. Oh boy I’d love to visit japan. The amazing watch and pen stores would be worth it alone. The amazing sights, food, and culture would just be gravy 🙂

  • gerald_d

    Fantastic article – thanks Ariel. Hoping to go on a serious buying trip soon. Just need to sell a couple of watches first!

  • GregV8

    There is no justification for that price IMO. Take off a zero and then it’s OK.

  • SuperStrapper

    For that price I was 10mm thick. Seriously, I can see absolutely no advantage to having a watch that thin. It looks ridiculous on the wrist.

  • egznyc

    The thickest part of the case almost looks like it’s the (skinny) crown. What is this drive for thinness? I just don’t find it very well proportioned. Obviously the crystal isn’t too thick on this, which means it’s more prone to damage. But hey, to each one’s own.

  • beardedman

    These are not at all attractive. Exposed screws turn me off every time. And while being this thin is impressive, it’s highly impractical to my view. Definitely not spending $4K on something like this.

  • iamcalledryan

    Very impressed with the technology, but the case is really bad. It looks like a watch you find in a drawer full of discarded watches. I would rather wear the coin on my wrist.

  • Roman

    Very interesting article and intriguing watch.

  • Shinytoys

    I love what Citizen and Seiko are doing with their designs, I’m very interested in their future, and they have their designs sighted on the future. I collect many antique quality pieces of watches. Still, my every day wearer is a Pro Trek. How can you go wrong. Powered by the sun and get the correct time signal from outer space. Plus, you can’t destroy the thing. Lord knows accidently I have tried. Thanks Casio. Now a dress watch that does all those same things and gets GPS Tracking timing, no fuss, no muss, no heavy gels or cream, count me in. My Citizen Blue Angel Nighthawk series still makes me smile. Call me crazy…then make many different iterations that fit under my Burberry Shirts, I’ll take one in every color 🙂

  • JumpingJalapeno

    Terms like “performance are often used to describe mechanical watch movements”. I’d back any decent quartz movement vs a decent mechanical for accuracy. A GS 9F is accurate to +/-10 sec/year…PER YEAR. As for this citizen, a very tidy package!

  • gadgety

    “the Concord Delirium family of timepieces from years back. Even
    though those slim watches were beautiful, they probably never should
    have made it to market because their cases tended to bend (and in some
    instances, rather easily).”

    Their 0.98 mm watch did bend, but the fat 1.98mm version didn’t, afaik. At least not under regular dress watch usage. The problem rather seems to be there are no batteries to be found that are thin enough. Anyway, Seiko had a thin 2.5mm watch as well. I remember holding that Concord Delirium and marvelling at the watch face. It looked deeper than the watch was, and that was intriguing.

    I applaud the Citizen effort. It is a nice understated watch design. Not having to change batteries is very nice, too. However I lack that marvel I felt when I saw the Delirium, that illusion of depth even though there couldn’t be any. I’d also like to see 100m water resistance, a date wouldn’t be bad either, and HAQ. “Well it can’t be done” It’s exactly then that I want it. Programming of the $50 TI watch made it accurate to within a second a year. Something that gives the feeling of “hot damn.” Now it’s more like a solid effort, while I’d like to go “Oh wow.”

  • Adam

    I love the idea of the watch, but I think the design doesn’t work. It’s made my worst looking watches Top 5. http://www.bezelous.com/5-worst-looking-watches-from-baselworld-2016/

  • smoothsweeper

    My grab-and-go piece is an Eco-Drive and I find myself wearing it so much more than I thought I would when I bought it. I work at a desk so any watch will do for most of the day, but then I started commuting by bicycle. There’s no way I’m subjecting a balance wheel to the knocks and vibrations my wrist goes through. So I pretty much wear my little Citizen 5 days a week now, and only take out the mechanicals at night and weekends. Its perfect size (37.5mm wide, 10mm high) doesn’t hurt either.

    Here it is, the best damn field watch on the planet (BM8180-03E):

  • Jonathan

    Can you provide info on the watch the gentleman in the suit is wearing, also shown on the japan-only window display? Would love to know how to get one in the US if possible. Thanks.

  • Jonathan

    For anyone interested, the watch shown is The Citizen’ model AQ1010-03E, Japan market only as far as I can tell.