Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

今年是 Patek Philippe (百達翡麗) 240 自動上條超薄機芯誕生 40 週年,故推出了兩款採用這經典機芯的新時計,分別是 Ref. 5180 及 Ref. 6006。但嚴格來說,兩者所用的機芯又不盡相同。Ref. 6006 是 Ref. 6000 的取代版,配置了基本的 240 機芯,具小三針功能,但其焦點其實不在機芯之上,但 Ref. 5180/1R 則是搭置 240 機芯的鏤空款,擁有精緻的雕花與板橋設計,只有兩針顯示,機芯就是唯一的主角。

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

Ref. 5180/1R 並非「全新」作品,因為它早於 2008 年已經登場,其時搭配的是 18K 白金表殼及表鏈。近年 Ref. 5180G 也常見於拍賣巿場,而目前最貴的一款 Ref. 5180 亦是在拍賣場出現,於 2016 年 5 月成交,下槌價達四百多萬港元。其高價自有原因:它是唯一一枚配鈦金屬殼的 Ref. 5180,Patek Philippe 於2009 年為 Children Auction 慈善拍賣特別製作的孤品。事實上,Patek Philippe 極少製作鈦金屬腕表,無獨有偶,Ref. 6000 亦曾推出鈦版的慈善孤品,後來放售於拍賣場,錄得 200 萬元的超高價。至此,也不妨一提,今年 Patek Philippe 為 Only Watch 2017 製作了 Ref. 5208 的鈦金屬版,相信會是當日的最高價拍品,不知道在數年後,會否在拍場看到它再以「超高價」成交。

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測   Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

回說今年這枚 Ref. 5180/1R,就是換上了一身 18K 玫瑰金,18K 玫瑰金表殼搭配玫瑰金金鏈。它跟 Ref. 5180G 一樣採用 240 SQU 機芯(SQU 代表 Squelette,即 240 機芯的鏤空版本),但改為玫瑰金色。今時今日,坊間已經有很多鏤空腕表,不同的製作方法,不同的面貌,可謂各有特色。而 240 SQU 則採用傳統的製作方式,以 240 機芯為基礎,剔除了「非必要」的夾板部分,只留下纖巧幼細的夾板及板橋,這工序極考功夫,留下多少,就意味了技師的功夫有多深。

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

而 Ref. 5180 出色之處,就是能夠把板橋的運用推到極限,使畫面極為通透,同時不失線條美感,在發條鼓上刻出了 Calatrava 十字星的同時又透視出下方的發條,在取與捨之間拿捏得恰到好處,美觀之餘,亦確保餘下的夾板能穩固機芯,保證其運作流暢可靠,單是這雕鏤的過程便需時一星期。

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

雕鏤以外,機芯還經過不少潤飾,在夾板僅有的位置上雕刻了精緻的渦旋和蔓藤花纹,發條鼓的邊緣還有「Patek Philippe Genève」的品牌英文簽署字樣。另外,機芯的裝飾不只在正面,翻轉至底部,也能看到夾板被刻上花纹,其 22K 金迷你上條陀更首度刻上了百達翡麗印記的雙 P 標誌。這個潤飾過程又花上了 130 多個小時。最後整個機芯會鍍上玫瑰金及作打磨,與 18K 玫瑰金表殼及表鏈相襯。

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

鏤空機芯的妙處,除了本身極講求雕刻的手藝,還有精準的計算,必須確保機芯的穩定,不能為了美貌而影響走時。240 SQU 機芯擺頻為每小時 21,600 次,配 Gyromax 擺輪及 Spiromax 游絲,已取得百達翡麗印記,確保每日只有 -3 至 +2 秒的誤差,算是側寫了其鏤雕功藝之精湛。另外,由於機芯直徑只有 27.5 毫米,與直徑 39 毫米的表殼有所距離,於是品牌略施小計,以 18K 玫瑰金托環環抱機芯,托環更鏤空出 12 條輪輻以充當小時刻度,其表面跟表殼及表鏈一樣用上鏡面拋光處埋,但內璧則經噴砂處理。

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 腕表評測 腕上評測

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1R 是 Calatrava 的一員,但其表殼又有點不同,品牌為它配上了十分纖幼的表圈,使焦點能集中在機芯之上,並配上大型藍寶石水晶表鏡及底蓋視窗,營造剔透效果,防水深度只有 30 米。腕表定價為 HK$ 738,400patek.com

  • RM Camp

    Without a second hand, is it really worth the extra scratch for 4Hz vs 3Hz?

    • You could argue that 4Hz provides greater accuracy but then again, you can’t tell the time accurately enough to judge that anyway.

  • smoothsweeper

    Nevermind….

    • DanW94

      You’re correct, the 9015 does run at 4hz, but this watch uses the 8215 which operates at 3hz.

  • word-merchant

    I thought the explanation of how to tell the time was fantastically useful and would just like to ask these experts:

    1. which side of the watch I should be looking at when attempting this?
    2. how should I perform the same exercise using my watch, that has three hands?

  • A_watches

    this watch is irritating, good luck selling this junk

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Did we really need the illustration on how to tell the time on this watch ?……..Answer,…….No.. I like it (white face/brown strap). I like to wear my watch quite loose on my wrist resting on the top of my hand. Now i don’t know what the etiquette is on this matter but i wear my watch on my left hand ( am left handed ) , would it kill them to stick the big knobbly crown on the other side to stop it digging into you ( especially at this diameter ),…..Answer,…..No.

  • Bill W

    OK, before I rag on this watch I will say that I like how they did the date window…

    • JimBob

      I’m sick of the goatse date windows.

  • Bill W

    I was thinking of starting a watch brand, perhaps by crowdfunding, that combined the worlds of automobiles and horology. To my dismay I learned that everyone and their brother (literally) has already done this, so I have decided to have my watch brand reflect my second love: the world of figure skating!

    • Raymond Wilkie

      The very best of luck with your endeavour.

    • Chaz

      Tonya Harding is available as spokesmodel…

      • Berndt Norten

        What is Jeff Gillooly’s role?!

      • JimBob

        I would hit that.

        • Chaz

          That was knee slapping funny…

  • Ulysses31

    Very stylish watches. For a moment I thought I was looking at something by Porsche Design. I find single-hand watches rather pointless; nothing would be harmed aesthetically by the addition of another hand, and it would increase the ease and accuracy of reading. I’d skip on the exhibition back, since there’s nothing to see there.

  • error406

    I don’t like bitching about microbrands that are at least trying to do something more interesting than the established brand, but the casing and the dial are such a painful stylistic mismatch it makes me vomit.

    Also, it looks like they took the success of Neil Carpenter’s lovely Brooklyn Field watch (https://carpenterwatches.com/) and said “let’s make one with a Porsche dial!”.

  • Marius

    Yet another watch inspired by the car world. As the article mentions: “It’s amazing what can result from an interest in both sports cars and luxury watches.” This “luxury” watch available on Kickstarter is truly amazing. However, for $150-$599 I’d rather buy a few packs of good lager. Or many, many packs of cheap lager.

    • Chaz

      Not “Car world”…MOTORSPORTS. Come on, Marius, use your over-the-top marketing hype words more wisely…

      • TechUser2011

        Luxury TIMEPIECES for MOTORSPORTS.

      • Bill W

        Forget motorsports, they really should have focused on vintage aviation. Oh wait…

      • Bill W

        I think Ferro is a little too close to Ferrari for my liking. May I suggest “Lamborghino”?

        • Bill W

          Bercedes Mens

  • DanW94

    Redline markers starting at 10 o’clock would have been a nice touch, or some sort of RPM x1000 designation on the dial. It needs a visual cue to connect it to a tach.

    • iamcalledryan
      • DanW94

        Bingo! That’s along the lines of what I was thinking. Now about the price on that one…..ouch.

        • MasterLudo

          And those ones, which are actually called RPM01 : http://www.sartory-billard.com
          (I’m one of the two co-creators involved, english version in progress)

    • I agree, sort of like this: I designed a watch to look like a BMW M6 tach a couple of years back, but never produced the watch. It was designed to use a Sellita SW 260 movement where the small seconds emulates the oil temperature subdial on the BMW M6 gauge. And I agree with other comments that a hand for the minutes does not destroy the design and you can even sneak the date in there. So if the tachometer metaphor is what one is after, go big or go home!

      • DanW94

        Mark, very cool design…..

      • Boogur T. Wang

        Hmmm…..

      • Shinytoys

        I want the car ! You make that happen Mark and you can use your watch brand for all gauges !

        • I have the car (an M6) but somehow my watches won’t of much use as replacements for speed, RPMs, and oil temp and fuel level. But I like the way you think!

  • Is the tachometer the only part of the car that ‘motorsports’ enthusiasts wish to replicated in everyday items? How about a watch designed after the refined style of luxury glove compartments? Brake pads? Wait, I got it: cup holders. Anyone want to get in on the ground floor of my latest endeavor, The Beveragissimo? It will come in two sizes (Venti and Grande), and modeled after the world’s most exclusive cup holders, namely that of the 1989 Chrysler minivan, the 1998 Honda Accord and the 2013 Subaru Outback.

  • Michael Kinney

    Why is it a watch dial that looks like a dashboard gauge is “inspired?” Of all the lazy, cliche design tropes out there…so what if it looks like a tachometer, speedometer, or gas gauge? Throw in some truly awful printing on the dial (the patronizing “how to” close-up really shows this off), a ridiculous date window, and a barely legible needle hand and there’s really nothing left to recommend it.

  • JimBob

    The picture of this next to a 911 makes me laugh.

    • Raymond Wilkie

      You’r right, i have on an earlier comment liked this watch, and i still do, but associating it in any way to a 911 is a joke ( love the pic of the watch on a pair of driving gloves ). The markers round the face look like they have been put on with felt tip pen by someone with Parkinsons. I still like minimalistic look but It’s nothing more than a cheap novelty,

      • JimBob

        Personally assembled and signed by Michael J. Fox.
        Too soon?

        • Raymond Wilkie

          You’r on shaky ground.

  • Josh Graves

    Nice designs. I question the ability to notice the difference in “smoothness” between a 3Hz and 4Hz movement when there is no second hand. That 1Hz difference should not cost $335. Maybe if the whole watch was Swiss Made it would be worth that much more. Swapping a Japanese ebauche for a Swiss one and making it a “limited edition” does not justify doubling the price. Maybe the douchie gloves are worth it for someone out there.

  • Chaz

    Ahhh….and the fancy glove tie-in photo…

  • word-merchant

    Looking at the comments so far, I’d say the takeaways for Ferro are to completely redesign the watch from top to bottom, to find a new dial printer, to drop the nonsense about being ‘inspired’ by motorsports, to drop the explanation on how to tell the time as most of us here have mastered that, have someone else write their ad copy, and to not photo Ferro products next to much, much nicer ones. Oh, and please no more glove photos – beyond creepy.

    Apart from that, I think this campaign’s going pretty well for them.

    • IG

      Yeah, because Ferro should do anything based on the comments here. LOL

    • Shinytoys

      completely disagree on all points….

      • word-merchant

        Noted.

        • Shinytoys

          democracy in progress, Thanks 🙂

  • D Leavitt

    Ugh. Where to start. Ok gages in cars almost universally suck. Even in expensive sports cars they don’t compare to the quality of even a cheap Timex. Their job is cars and the gages are always an afterthought. Second. Removing a feature does not make it better. Watches have minute hands for a reason. Third. This looks just like a stick on booster gage from JC Whitney. That’s NOT a compliment.

  • MasterLudo

    Too much Porsche added in those photos for a non Porsche brand.
    And so, why the typo of the brand scream Ferrari in my head ?
    Strange.

    Like the minimalist side, and found it almost nice in black with red needle.

  • Marco Ferreira

    I have a MasterSinger that makes the same for at least 7 years… but whit a Swiss movement, not a Chinese like this!!!

    • Shinytoys

      did you read the artilcle and miss the ETA availability. BTW, Miyota is not Chinese…

      • Marco Ferreira

        I read it ok… but the photos are whit a Miyota… and Chinese or Japanese it’s still not that great quality neither!!! They can say that they use a Rolex movement too… but it’s still nothing new as a watch and for a publicity they fail using the cheap stuff!!!

  • SuperStrapper

    Single handed watches make baby jesus cry.

  • BNABOD

    Some harsh comments so I will pile on and agrée w the masses. Legibility is usually a tough sell on single hand watches but it has been done well before just not here. While not ugly it is very cliché with the racing theme and the brand name Ferro reminds me too much of these delicious chocolates Ferrero.

  • dennis

    Wearing this watch and driving a car would be dangerous, you get the message.

    • Hands90

      This is hilarious. Sadly if this had a minute hand I’d buy one.

  • Randall Sheppard

    What is with all the haters?! Let’s look at the watch as a watch. Simplistic design, clear and crisp indicators. And for those who comment about looking at the watch while driving, they must have a car that pre-dates most modern cars anyway as they all have clocks.

    • Shinytoys

      touche….and funny too !

  • Randall Sheppard

    Besides, the word ferro is from the Latin word for iron ferrum, whereas Ferrari is from a family name of Enzo Ferrari the founder of this great car company.

  • cg

    Nice viewing and very clean. Great pricing especially with a good number of variations. Definitely worth it.

  • IG

    Like the black dial. Should be hand-wound.

  • Shinytoys

    I think the watch has a great look and it’s powered by bulletproof engines. I would definitely own one. The jury is still out on the tiny date window. I would have gone without, I feel it would make an already streamlined look cleaner yet.

  • TechUser2011

    Really nice watch. Since watches are just fashion accessories these days, I would prefer bold buy understated styles like this one.

    The black dial is the best. I love how the date window is really subtle.

  • Ikkijkooknooitnaardiestommetal

    Elegant, yet sporty! Please the automatic version for me, black dial with brown leather strap!

  • Why is the ‘3’ not the same width as the ‘9’? They had plenty of room, and I cannot imagine any designer doing that on purpose.

  • Luis

    Great watch!, modern style design, good size, good price, ETA movement on some of them. That’s great!! Good job!!