積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

2015年初夏,我們和積家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)相約見面,欣賞了一些很特別的東西。當時不能拍照,但我們卻親身體驗了積家於2014年推出的「全新」地球物理天文台系列的後續款型。現在,積家地球物理天文台系列腕表已正式開花結果,散發出獨一無二的魅力。其與眾不同的機芯系列不僅是積家的創新之舉,更代表了最新的腕表收藏價值主張。2015年地球物理天文台腕表系列首推此款Geophysic True Second地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表。

長話短說,全新自家製作的積家770型自動上條機芯擁有「真秒」複雜功能。也就是說,儘管配備機械機芯,但秒針卻會「跳動」。這在傳統上稱為「跳秒」,但聽上去並不優雅,因此積家將新機芯系列命名為更具藝術感的「真秒」。這所有的一切,都始於770機芯。

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

除真秒複雜功能之外,770機芯還有幾個別出心裁之處,不過我還是想再說一下真秒功能。跳秒已成為時下潮流,究其原因,首先有一個前提——辨別石英機芯與機械機芯的典型方法即為觀察秒針的運作。跳動秒針一般代表石英機芯,而掃秒針則代表機械機芯。擁有一枚機械腕表通常是尊貴的象徵,為何還有人希望一枚機械腕表乍看起來(或在外行看來)像是枚石英機芯腕表?

這是個很好的問題,我也不知道自己能否給出完整答案。我只能說,對真正的時計愛好者而言,跳秒功能有一種獨特、近乎神秘的吸引力。在過去幾年中,我們見證了一些小品牌,主要是獨立品牌,例如Antoine Martin、Grönefeld、De Bethune,以及 Arnold & Son等推出了這一複雜功能,售價一般都很高。現在,跳秒似乎正逐漸成為主流,就連最出名的品牌如積家也加入這一趨勢,並融入了自己的風格。可以說,「真秒」功能或許會作為所有地球物理天文台腕表今後發展的標誌。

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

積家770自動上條機芯另一大特點是採用全新自家生產的Gyrolab擺輪。調教系統的擺輪並非真正的輪子,而是半股形狀,兩端各有精緻的調校螺釘,與De Bethune自家製造的擺輪形狀類似。較小的擺輪面積減少了空氣阻力,進而減少了主發條使調校系統運作所需的能量。不過性能的提高只是理論上的,機芯整體表現如長時間精準走時、主發條動力儲存等會受到一系列因素的影響。

不過到頭來,積家作為一個自己製作其腕表機芯及表殼的公司,為其「獨家」特色又添了一筆——因為地球物理天文台腕表搭載了積家專屬Gryolab擺輪。770機芯動力儲存約40小時(真秒系統的確需要強大動力來推動秒針移動),由270部分組成。機芯上方為全新風格的上條陀(可通過藍寶石水晶表背一窺究竟),據說由整塊純金製成。個人認為,將來會在770的基礎上添加更多複雜功能。在發佈積家地球物理天文台真秒腕表的同時,積家也推出了地球物理天文台環球旅行腕表,搭載772機芯,加入了世界時間顯示。

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

積家地球物理天文台系列腕表始於1950年末期,誕生時主要作為科學主題腕表。2014年再次面世,意在追溯那段極具探索精神的歲月,並重現精密機械構件。原版腕表的一大特點為表盤上的夜光標示,而此典型特徵在新系列中則出現在表盤周圍的內影圈上。

2015年款積家地球物理天文台真秒腕表及環球旅行腕表全新的三針設計也深得我心。融優雅與強大為一體,三針清晰可見、極具陽剛魅力,散發出與眾不同的氣質。仔細觀摩真秒腕表表盤,宛如凝視著一枚簡約優雅的傳統運動腕表。積家也多次表示會為地球物理系列配備鏈帶,更加突顯表盤之美。

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

積家地球物理天文台系列真秒腕表搭載全新自家機芯 腕表發佈

規格方面,此款真秒腕表錶殼直徑39.6毫米,寬闊的設計樣式使其更顯大氣。表殼厚度11.7毫米,防水深度50米。與2014年38.5毫米的地球物理天文台腕表1958年復刻版相比,積家地球物理天文台真秒腕表更勝一籌。而針對2015年款,積家則會推出18K玫瑰金或精鋼表殼。

精緻傳統的腕表兼具多重功能,積家地球物理天文台真秒腕表可謂傳統瑞士機械表中配備跳秒功能的不二之選。其魅力很難用語言表達,但親自試戴後便知是否喜歡。在我看來,這是地球物理天文台系列朝著正確方向邁出的一大步。積家初期會為地球物理天文台真秒腕表配備鱷魚皮表帶,精鋼款參考編號Q801 84 20,零售價9,050美元;18K玫瑰金款參考編號Q801 25 20,零售價17,500美元。jaeger-lecoultre.com

  • DR

    You’d think that Seiko or Citizen would be a better fit with Honda at McLaren (although maybe the love for Japan went out of the door with last season’s performances and the exit of Mrs Button…). I think Red Bull are still partnering with Casio (/Edifice)?

    For the first time in my life, I’m going to skip watching this F1 season. When they moved the “European” Grand Prix to Azerbaijan, you realise Bernie has finally jumped the shark.

    On the positive side, at least the shallow commercialism has found a perfect partner with Richard Mille!

  • After our Texas Redneck teams dominates every race in the upcoming season, utilizing our Ford 1.0L Ecoboost engine; RM will be sorry they did not hire me to be their brand ambassador. Hell, I would have been happy to pose a few snapshots in my 1964 F-150 pickup and post them on Instagram. OK Richard, you had your chance……………………

  • CortexUK

    Haha. Tag Who?

  • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

    Okay, where to start? I was watching F1 for many years and supported McLaren during that time. I watched all races of the season (even the overseas ones, etc.) About 10 years ago when they managed to tweak all the rules to make it more boring season by season my interest started fading away and about 5 years ago I stopped watching altogether. But I still maintained my love of McLaren and keep wearing my McLaren cufflinks, bracelet, etc.

    I’m also a fan of Tag and their watches (more of Carrera then the F1 line) and will continue to be regardless of which F1 team they support (if any). For me their partnership made sense as they are producing similar high quality luxury products but still maintain some kind of connection to reality with their pricing.

    So, arriving to this new partnership deal: For me RM is one of the watch brands out there to whom I have no desire to associate to in any form. And I’m a bit sad that McLaren had to go with them instead of a more respected watch maker.

    Imho the personality of RM is much closer to Flavio Briatore then of Ron Dennis.

  • Fooman

    Odd RM is also seen on the just debuted Haas F1 team.

  • Polly Molly Moo

    Atrociously over-priced illegible wristwatch manufacturer partners obsessive-compulsive F1 boss. Within any marketed goods, there is always one brand which is famous just for being the most expensive there is. Not necessarily the best (or far from it in RM’s case), but the brand which says “I know naff-all about watches, but I’d like everyone to know that I have the most expensive brand on my wrist, though I look at my mobile phone when I actually need to see what time it is”. Who pays 6-7 figures for a watch on which it is so difficult to read the time? Ladies and Gentlemen, the Emperor isn’t wearing any clothes.

    Oh yes, RM is also the brand of watch seized more than any other, when police raid the Mexican drug cartels. Tells you all you need to know. Hublot ‘Big Dick King Dong Bang’ in 2nd place.

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