寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

璣(Breguet)2015年度過了Tradition系列的十週年紀念時刻,而品牌也借機推出7087三問陀飛輪腕表慶祝這一重要里程碑。雖然這枚時計早於2015年的巴塞爾鐘表展就已發布,但在寶新一輪的重磅力作到來之前,我們也選擇對7087進行回顧。其這一作品結合了品牌最知名的複雜功能與當代頂尖科技,無論從視覺效果還是典藏價值來看都可謂是出類拔萃。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣擁有兩條截然不同的創作路線:一為以Type X為代表的精緻運動風格,專為尋求經典工具時計的人士打造;另一便是Tradition這樣集斯沃琪集團(Swatch Group)尖端技術於一身的頂級系列,其呈獻的則是純粹的鐘藝術。我們最近仔細研究了被Ariel譽作為表迷而生」的7077,這一計時恰好也是在2015年的巴塞爾鐘表展登場,所以我們自然要對Tradition系列好好剖析一番。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

三問時計的歷史要追溯至遙遠的1600年代,這一複雜功能可以說是製表技藝的至高巅峰。所以寶璣在Tradition系列下推出三問時計也符合其一貫的製表哲學:打造完美融合自身製表積澱與現代創新技術的时计。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

衡量一枚三問時計的關鍵指標就在於其打簧音質。報時音質不僅要足夠清脆以令人清楚分辨時間,同時音色還需優美悅耳,並且絕對不能尖利刺耳。在7087上,寶璣的製表工匠采用了一套前所未有的方法開展聲學設計:他們以數字模擬手段製作出近十萬種聲音,隨後參照心理聲學標準挑選出最優異的樂音。如此一來,從材質選擇到腕表的機構設計都以聲音爲基準,只爲再現那萬裡挑一的獨特奏鳴。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

正如其名稱所示,7087不僅是一枚三問腕表,其同時在6時位還搭載著一個60秒陀飛輪機構。鑒於品牌創始人Abraham-Louis Breguet正是陀飛輪發明者這一史實,該設計的存在自然也就合情合理。負責驅動腕表的565DR自製機芯採用了鉑金週邊1環形自動上條陀,而其動力儲存達80小時。機芯本身也充分體現了寶璣在融合現代與經典元素上的努力,例如以古董表款爲靈感的鈦合金夾板、矽製游絲以及帶有矽棘爪的反向槓桿式擒縱機構。正是這些技術創新令寶璣在兩個多世紀中一直處於領先地位。需要特別留意的是,得益於寶璣對矽材質的熟練運用,磁性調節器技術才最終成真。這一機構能令打鳴節奏保持穩定,避免其受到發條能量下降的影響。雖然大多數三問時計也會在輪系中置入某種時間調節裝置,但其運作産生的噪音勢必將影響樂音的純淨度。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣這一無形的調節器是由一系列磁鐵組成,其能對調節器內部的碟片均勻施加吸引和排斥作用,從而實現精準恆定的打鳴節奏。如果將這枚機芯拆解開來,更會感覺到所有部件都是爲同一目標服務的:要麽優化樂音傳導,要麽盡力消除雜音。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣7087三問陀飛輪腕表上值得欣賞的細節實在太多,這也是緣於製工匠們希望用家看到所有的創新成果所致。當你的目光從坑紋表殼移向1時位的偏心18K白金表盤後,你會發現其既提供了清晰可辨的讀時體驗,又爲展示三問機構預留了充足空間。兩條固定在表圈上的白金音簧(Abraham-Louis Breguet的又一發明)橫貫表盤,其能産生更爲寬廣的振動頻率,大大優化振動的傳導。而就連音錘也是完全獨創的設計,其能從垂直方向敲擊機芯而不是通常的平行方向,使得機械振動更有效地轉化爲聲波。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

透過藍寶石水晶表鏡和表背,機芯的奧秘便一目了然。而表背也蘊藏著一項專用於提升聲學品質的重要創新:附著於表背上的一層金膜能在其與底蓋之間的音腔內形成空氣振動,從而大大提升報時音量,同時過濾機械裝置的噪聲。這枚腕表上每一處可見、不可見的細節都令人著迷,它們也都源於寶璣對於呈現無瑕報時聲的執著。值得留意的細節還包括10時位負責啓動報時的按鈕,以及靈感來自古董三問懷表的夾板和傳導輪系設計(用於消弭報時帶來的機芯負荷)。但說來也奇怪,在這隻充斥著大量古元素的傳統複雜功能時計上,依然可見現代風格的種種細節。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表有效利用了44毫米直徑表殼內的每寸空間,我們試戴過18K玫瑰金版本後驚訝地發現,雖然這一尺寸不夠低調,但也完全可以接受。鏤通腕表往往在視覺上比較極端,然而寶璣這枚作品卻以打造精細聲學體驗爲宗旨,將所有部件有序進行排佈。即便是營造出強烈視覺反差的灰色钛金屬主板和夾板也同樣是爲過濾機芯噪音而設。要知道,這麽大尺寸的鈦金屬加工起來非常困難。而聲學薄膜和環形上條陀這樣的機構也有效減少了對機芯的遮擋。可以看得出來,寶璣在視覺設計上力求將品牌的製表精髓盡收眼底。

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

寶璣Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表評測 腕上評測

話說回來,要享受寶璣的標誌性設計其實有更經濟的選擇(比如Classique系列),但Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表卻是爲一個特別的群組量身訂造的,他們既是忠實表迷又是音響發燒友,其熱愛歷史和工藝技術,並會希望親眼見證優美樂音在腕表中産生的過程。最重要的是,這枚獨一無二的頂級時計完全來自寶璣對完美聲音和雅緻設計的超凡執著。其讓我想起芝柏的三問陀飛輪,但那枚作品更強調對稱美學,其在視覺反差、讀時清晰度和技術高度上都略輸遜寶璣一籌。因此,即便18K玫瑰金和白金版本的Tradition 7087三問陀飛輪腕表開價達450,000瑞郎,也可以是物有所值。breguet.com

  • donmendigo

    Sounds like a sausagefest

  • trj66

    Ariel, you are SO wicked – tsk, tsk, tsk…

    I was really looking forward to cruise around in Copenhagen to Wind-Up some horological babes – but was utterly concerned the app wouldn’t be able to run on iOS 7 (I’m a sucker for vintage software..).

    PETStraps is still my favourite, but you always put a lot work into fooling us – your watch-loving, nerdy friends.

    Keep up the good work!

  • Yojimbo

    so it’s like grindr but for ppl that bang spring mechanisms?

  • beardedman

    Wow, you nailed me! I was totally ready to give it a try. lol

  • CortexUK
  • spiceballs

    Yep, got me too and yes, what is the watch on the RHS of 1st pic? There you go – it could work.

  • Chaz

    April Fool’s joke aside, it seems IWC is schlepping its wares on China based chat app WeChat these days. Georges must be getting desperate…

    • iamcalledryan

      But wechat is waaaaay more than just social media, it’s an entire universe of potential.

  • peter_byford

    Ha ha ! I fell for it too lol !

    Seems apt to post an app for mobile which I use….& yes it works ! I use W10 laptop & W10 Lumia mobile, so I’ve kept a previous android HTC , as the app is android OS only. Takes a bit of familiarisation & setting up, but it does aid regulate both pocket watches & mechanical watches in quick time if you haven’t got the specialist rate time equipment. It’s called WILDSPECTRA & free……….here’s a youtube link. Note, no audio on it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zU3ybI_6hZA

  • Himanshu Arora

    Ahhhhhh…. Ariel !!!! I fell for it too…. I have been careful whole day… but eventually end up searching this app on on webpage, playstore to find only weather wind apps.

  • Hacker4748

    So it seems a lot of people got… wound up?

  • egznyc

    Brilliant! I hate to admit that I was falling for this too – and when I started describing it to my not-horologically-inclined wife, she immediately asked,what date was this from?,” and when I said April 1, she said, “it’s an April Fool’s joke.” But this seems like it’d actually work 😉

  • Dante Natarelli

    Ugg, I know it’s a joke, but can we actually make this real?

  • Normz

    yea as much as i enjoy laughing at my tinder using friends, this app is actually pretty good idea. its a easy way to find watch friends in your town, especially if its not a major city. luckily I’m blessed to be in a watch meet up group but the other city i split my time in is much smaller. not many chances to meet people with this hobby there.

  • Frits van der Veer

    Its a joke now, but i wouldn’t be surprised if it is going to be a real thing.
    Still remember a HIFI-blog site making a april fools joke about wire-less speakers. Everybody thought it was a ridiculous ID. .. See us now having bluetooth speakers..

  • Jackson Hanna

    WHY IS THIS NOT ON ANDROID!!!

    • Jackson Hanna

      WHY IS NOT A REAL THING!